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Obsolete’ supplies a large number of used parts. We are proud of our ability to supply used parts in place of “no longer available” new parts, or in other cases as an economical alternative to outrageously expensive new components. Some used parts require a lot of time and effort to prepare, while some others don’t. As most customers who have dealt with us will attest, we try to ensure the quality of the used parts that we supply. Where possible we clean & test all parts prior to shipping. You know the saying, “time is money”. Consequently, if we supply a used part and you wish to return it, we will be charging a restocking charge. We will not be gouging anyone but we will have to cover some of the costs that we have incurred in getting & preparing used parts.
TR6 RH Front Fender – Very Good Used
We got this fender in about a year ago. It is an original fender off a 76 TR6 that spent most of its life indoors. The paint was mostly stripped off by a body shop with the intention of repainting it. Though it is a damn good fender, it isn’t perfect. Consequently, it was replaced with a new one. It has a LOT of original 1976 undercoating on the inside which should be stripped away with solvent and elbow grease… I don’t think there will be any pinholes, but I cannot guarantee it. Can be used on any 6976 TR6 (though you will need to redrill the bumper hole of pre 1975 cars.)
Used TR6 Wheels
Over the years, Obsolete’ has dismantled a good number of Tr6 parts cars. Brandnew TR6 road wheels have not been available for a long time (nor are they likely to reappear). Whether you’ve hit one pothole too many, or hit a curb, having a bent wheel is no fun. We have started getting calls for wheels recently. It is one item that Obsolete’ is able to supply in good used condition. If you purchase a used wheel from us, you will probably need to have it blasted and painted. This is work that most any body shop can accomplish. The important thing is that we test our used wheels for “outofround”, as well as radial runout. Tr6 wheels were never perfect in either respect. On the other hand, we try to sell used wheels that only have about .040” in runout, in either direction. The supply of good used wheels that actually meet this spec is rather limited, but we do have some. We mount each wheel on a hub and rotate it while using a dial indicator to measure out of true in both planes. Our used wheels need cleaning and painting. They may have some small rim dents as well.
Used TR6 Oil Pan
There are no new oil pans available for the TR6. A lot of cars are driving around with badly dented oil pans. The other problem is the oil pan drain plug. Careless removal attempts with an illfitting wrench (often a pipe wrench) end up with a stuck plug. The wrench flats get rounded off and then there is no way to get the plug out! Since it has a tapered thread, it is often jammed into the oil pan threaded hole. Owners of MGs should be much happier because their oil pan plug has a parallel threadwhich means that plug removal is generally never a problem.
We’ve seen lots of badly dented oil pans on TR6s, usually from running over a curb or other obstruction. If it gets wrinkled badly, it can crack. This will allow the oil to run out. If you don’t catch it in time, it can ruin your engine…
We have a nice used pan in stock. Basically, very straight, only slight rust, and the drain plug is in good order.
There were two different oil pans produced during TR6 production.
TR250s and TR6s thru 1972 have an oil pan with a rear mounted drain plug.
Tr6s from 73 – 76 have an oil pan with a LH side mounted drain plug. This change was probably made because access for plug removal was lousy with the earlier configuration.
Otherwise the oil pans appear to be identical.
Came off a 75 TR6. Should fit any TR6.
GT6 MK3 Transmission
We got this tranny in a GT6 parts collection early last Spring.
I have NOT opened it up for inspection.
It feels pretty good from rotating the clutch input shaft. It only wobbles a little.
It is complete with the bellhousing and clutch release lever.
Sold in asis condition.
GT6 MK3 Carb Set with Intake Manifold
Here is a fairly complete set of GT6 carbs. These are the later Stromberg’s with the nonadjustable jets. Should be correct for any MK3 car. Should work on any GT6.
These carbs are quite crusty from sitting for a long time.
Some corrosion, lots of dirt. These will need painstaking overhaul.
I think they are workable pieces though. Just try and find a complete set of GT6 carbs these days…
Sold in asis condition.
GT6+ Rostyle Hub Cap Set – Used
We got a set of four, very original GT6+ Hubcaps. They are in mediocre condition, but I reckon that a professional could rework them. If it weren’t for the fact that they are extremely rare and hard to find, I wouldn’t even advertise them… It looks like they were only used on some 68 – 70 cars.
For the set of four, knowing that they need work…
Spitfire 1500 Transmission Cluster Gear – good used
We got this very nice used cluster gear in recently.
There is a little bit of wear on first gear, but not much. The reverse gear looks good.
The tooth count, starting at the big end is: 29 26 21 15 15.
This is a Spitfire 1500 nonmodified cluster gear. It is for use with a 21tooth reverse idler gear.
It will fit many 1970 to 1979 cars. To be sure, you have to compare the tooth count on your existing cluster gear against the tooth count shown above.
These damn gears have always cost a fortune. Even worse, there don’t seem to be any new ones available at this point.
This is one of the nicest used Spitfire cluster gears that we’ve ever had.
TR6 – Spitfire 1500 JType Overdrive Cone Clutch
We got some really “GOOD JUNK” in recently. It included a couple of JType overdrive cone clutchesand they are in pretty good condition…
Laycock overdrive parts are pretty durable, especially the later JType stuff.
That being said, cone clutches get damaged or destroyed in a couple of different ways:
The cone clutch is a “WET” clutch, but it won’t stay wet if your oil level drops to zero! Triumph trannys have a knack for leaking. A leaking tranny left to its own devices will end up being empty. It will fry the overdrive clutch (not to mention the gears and bearings in the transmission).
If your overdrive starts slipping while engaged, don’t be stupid enough to floor the accelerator. It will burn up the cone clutch in no time flat!
This is often caused by low hydraulic pressure (again usually caused by a low oil level).
If one of your lockout switches starts to fail, it may open and close the electrical circuit to the overdrive solenoid. It can cause temperamental overdrive engagement, causing slippage as well.
The cone clutch doesn’t seem to be available new anymore. The last time I saw one, it was like $350 $450.
Used ones are few and far between.
For our used one in reasonable condition.
MGB Oil Pans
MGB oil pans are often in pretty rough shape these days. Some cars have driven over manhole covers that “they didn’t agree with”, while others have suffered a similar fate while driving on or off car ferry’s (amongst other things).
Is your car one of them? If your oil pan is buckled or bent badly, it may eventually crack and all your oil will leak out…
Another common problem is RUST. The picture above is quite telling. Many MGBs have oil pans that are almost rusted thru. In fact, if it weren’t for a heavy sludge layer inside the pan, some would already be leaking!
Unfortunately, there are no new stocktype oil pans available. You can buy an aftermarket Aluminum pan, but it is almost $500! Also, they are fragile and easily broken.
There were a few different oil pans used during MGB production.
Oil pans are pretty well interchangeable for all 1965 – 1980 engines.
Most of the oil pans that come in from donor cars are pretty rough. There is frequently severe pitting from rust or huge dents, either from collision damage, or an ill placed jack.
That being said, we do have a couple of fairly nice oil pans available now.