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Clutch Alignment Tool | TLCLUTC3319 TR6 – TR3

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TR6 – TR250 – TR4A Clutch Components

TR’s are known for clutch problems.

As with any car, time and mileage take their toll.  Clutch disc linings wear with use and pressure plate diaphragm springs get ‘tired’.

When your clutch wears out we strongly recommend that all related parts be carefully inspected and replaced as necessary.  Doing this will reduce the likelihood of ending up with an unsatisfactory job and all the frustration that goes along with it, such as pulling everything apart a second time. Clutch troubles can be either hydraulic or mechanical.

If your car begins to feel & sound as though it has an automatic transmission the probability is high that the clutch is worn out.  If this happens to you the symptoms will be easy to detect:

Flooring the accelerator pedal while driving in first gear will cause the engine speed to increase almost instantaneously without a comparable increase in the speed of the car. This almost always indicates that your clutch is slipping and worn out.

On the other hand, if you press the clutch pedal and it feels mushy, or very little ‘effort’ is required to press the pedal to the floor, the clutch master or slave cylinders are probably faulty.  A leaking clutch master or slave cylinder will cause the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to fall.  The clutch system holds very little fluid. If the clutch master or slave cylinder leak, it will empty out your hydraulic system in no time. Once air gets into the system, the clutch won’t release at all.

TR6 & TR250 clutches are prone to a variety of troubles.

On occasion, car owners have replaced the clutch only to be plagued with ongoing clutch trouble.  When this happens, it is not uncommon to blame continuing clutch trouble on a supposedly ‘faulty’ new clutch.

Below are listed a number of related clutch problems which we have experienced.  If you have clutch trouble, all of these items should be carefully examined.

Clutch Release Bearing.

The clutch release bearing in these cars is a ball race type bearing.  It is EXTREMELY sensitive to incorrect installation.  There is a slight interference fit between the release bearing and the sleeve. Don’t be tempted to try installing it by hammering the two pieces together! Doing this will dent the ball bearings and the races. It will fail immediately once this is done… Failure of the bearing will be accompanied by squealing noises and damage to the release fingers of the clutch pressure plate.

To install a release bearing successfully, it must be gently pressed onto the sleeve using a press or a vice.  During the installation process, pressure exerted by the press or vice, should be released and the bearing partially rotated. Repeat this procedure a number of times during installation. This is necessary to evenly distribute the pressure on the bearing balls during installation.  Installing the release bearing in this fashion will substantially extend its service life.


Clutch Release Bearing Carrier/Sleeve

The clutch release bearing is a press fit onto its sleeve.  The inner surface of the sleeve must be in good condition.  It must slide easily on the outer surface of the transmission front seal housing.  However, it must not be excessively loose and worn.  If its internal bore has become badly worn it may ‘cock’ and bind when you are engaging the clutch.  This can cause severe drivability trouble.

Replace the sleeve if it is in questionable condition.


Clutch Cross Shaft, Cross Shaft Fork, Locking Pin, and Fork to Carrier Pins


Triumphs are notorious for problems in these components.

They all must be checked carefully!  In particular check the following:

Unscrew the cross shaft to fork retaining pin.  At least 50% of the time the pin will prove to be broken.  This will cause insufficient release fork travel, resulting in partial clutch release.  If the pin is found to be intact, check that it still fits tightly in its tapered hole in the cross shaft.  Any rocking between the pin and the cross shaft will soon result in a broken pin and symptoms as just discussed.

Even though no Triumph manual will ever tell you this, we strongly urge you to install a brand new tapered locking pin AND drill a second hole through the cross shaft & fork.  Then install a large bolt and locking nut.  This will prevent a recurrence of this extremely annoying (& labour intensive) problem.

Check the two outboard pins located in the ends of the cast iron fork.  These pins communicate the movement from the cross shaft/fork to the release bearing carrier.  Originally these pins were round. Yours probably aren’t.  Careful inspection will usually show these pins to be rather flattened on the side that bears against the release bearing assembly.

Wear in this area will effectively reduce the clutch linkage movement by 1/16″ or more.  This is sufficient ‘lost movement’ to cause release problems in an already marginal clutch.

New pins are easily installed if necessary.


Bell Housing Bushes

The transmission bell housing supports the cross shaft in all TR6 through TR3 vehicles.

In each side of the bell housing, bushes are pressed into the holes through which the cross shaft passes. These bushes wear badly where they contact the cross shaft, particularly on the driver’s side.

Also, check the LH end of the cross shaft. It tends to wear badly as well.

Excess wear in either of these components further adds to ‘lost movement’ in the clutch linkage, contributing to clutch release malfunction.

These items are cheap, easy to install (during clutch overhaul), and we urge you to replace them.



TR6 – TR250 – TR4A Clutch Assembly

Numerous problems with the TR6 over the years have taught us never to sell ‘off brand’ or rebuilt clutch components.

Made in UK by A.P. (Automotive Products) we import these clutches from AP in Warwickshire England. They don’t call themselves Borg & Beck-but they ship from the very same address on Tackbrook Road in Leamington Spa, UK…

Funny thing is that if you buy a Borg & Beck brand clutch (probably for quite a bit more money), and compare the pressure plate and disc against our AP brand parts, they are pretty much identical-except that they don’t have the words Borg & Beck stamped on them.

If you ask me, I’d rather save the $70 and skip the fancy printing on my pressure plate!


Brand new components.

Always install a new clutch as a 3 piece set.

Kit includes a new pressure plate, disc, and release bearing.

Fits all 68-76 cars.




TR6 –TR250 – TR4A Clutch Assembly – softer pedal

We now stock a “softer” clutch. This clutch has diaphragm springs that are not as strong. With this clutch, there will be less clamping force on the disc. It will provide adequate clutch operation for cars that are not modified or driven hard.

The benefit of using this clutch will be a clutch pedal that doesn’t need to be pushed as hard as with the clutch listed above…

Brand new AP brand clutch.




TR6 – TR3 Clutch Alignment Tool

When you go to bolt the pressure plate onto your flywheel, you’ll need to centralize the clutch disc underneath. If you don’t, the input shaft splines won’t fit thru the centre of the clutch disc!

You can “eye” things up with a big screwdriver, or you can use this handy little plastic tool.

Fits all 58 – 76 cars.




TR6-TR4A Release Bearing Sleeve/Carrier

Just like the text above tells you, check your release bearing sleeve for wear on its inner surface and on the outer groove where the dowel pins in the fork ride.

Fits 65-76 cars.




TR6 TR250 Clutch Release Bearing

*Included in the clutch assembly above.

Please heed the installation tip above carefully to assure a proper service life.

Fits all 68-76 cars.



Clutch Pilot Bush




Fits all 55-70 cars   CL-PILOT-47246



TR6 1971-1976   CL-PILOT-151213


TR6-TR250-TR4A Clutch Cross Shaft

Fits 66-76 cars.      CL-SHAFT-136354


TR6 TR4 Clutch Fork

This is the cast iron fork which is locked onto the cross shaft with a taper pin (not included).

Supplied with new dowel pins installed.

Fits 62-76 cars.



TR6 TR4 Clutch Cross Shaft/Fork Taper Pin

Our pin is made of a high strength alloy to resist breakage.

Always install a new pin when servicing your clutch assembly.

Fits all 62-76 cars.


TR6 TR4 Release Fork Dowel Pins

Just as the text describes above, check the dowels in your existing fork.  If the thrust side of the pins have become flat, install new ones.

Two required.

Fits 62-76 cars.




TR6 TR250 Bell Housing/Cross Shaft Bushes

Two of these bushes are pressed into the sides of the bell housing which the cross shaft rotates on.

Bushes wear out.  The clutch linkage gets ‘lost movement’ and clutch disengagement troubles begin.

Fits 68-76 cars. 2 Needed



TR6 TR250 Clutch Slave Push Rod

Connects the slave cylinder to the arm on the clutch cross shaft

All 68-76 cars.




TR6 – TR250 Adjustable Clutch Slave Pushrod – new item

A very common problem that we hear about is inadequate clutch release. Usually there is not quite enough movement in the slave cylinder and pushrod. Installing an adjustable pushrod will often cure the problem. This pushrod has a threaded bar and a mating threaded, forked end. You can lengthen or shorten the whole thing as needed to get enough throw for good clutch release.

This won’t be the answer for a “dead” master cylinder or broken cross shaft pin-but it will often fix an unsatisfactory release situation otherwise.



TR6 – TR250 Clutch Hydraulic Components



TR250 & 1969 TR6 Clutch Master Cylinder Kit

We now stock repair kits for the early ¾” cylinder.

If you have an early car-or a later car that’s been retrofitted with the ¾” cylinder, we now have the correct repair kit on sale.




TR6 Clutch Master Cylinder-.700” bore size

Here’s a brand new TRW brand cylinder at a great low price.

Correct for any 1970 – 1976 TR6. A new master cylinder is always a better alternative to repair kits.

-Even if your old cylinder can be successfully overhauled, what about the worn out pushrod?

-How disappointed will you be if rebuilding your old master cylinder doesn’t work out?  If a cylinder overhaul isn’t successful, you’ll have spent a couple hours and $16 for a repair kit-all for nothing!




TR6 1970-1976 Clutch Master Cylinder Kit

Here is the correct kit for master cylinders with .700” bore size.




TR6 – TR250 Clutch Flex Hose

Replacement plastic hose with fittings attached.

Red plastic hose. Kinda close to the original, but not quite. Works fine.

All 68-76 cars.




TR6 – TR250 Clutch Slave Cylinder

Clutch slave cylinders live a hard life. On a TR6 they are under the car and fully exposed to the elements. Chances are that your slave cylinder is a rusty, encrusted mess!

Complete slave cylinder, supplied with bleed screw.

Fits all 1968-1976 cars.




TR6 – TR250 Clutch Slave Cylinder Kit

A leaking slave cylinder is easier to repair on the TR6 compared to many other sports cars. Since it is a large diameter, cast-iron cylinder, it is easy to clean out with a hone mounted on an electric drill.

On the other hand, our brand new replacement slave cylinders have never been as affordable as they are today…

Fits all 1968-1976 cars.